I finally did it. After years of saving photos and telling myself “one day,” I landed in Europe’s most famous walled city… well, almost.
On approach, the wind (locals call it the bura) kicked up, the pilot waved off the landing, and we were sent all the way back to Vienna. Cue an unexpected overnight in Warsaw, a lost carry‑on with all my clothes, and the kind of travel chaos that would normally derail a trip.
But here’s the thing: one drive past those sea walls, with the stone glowing and the water turning every shade of blue, and I stopped caring about my stuff. I was just giddy to be there.
That first exhale happened the moment I walked into Hotel Bellevue Dubrovnik.
It’s carved into the cliff with a glass elevator and big, cinematic bay views, even from my first‑floor room. The team was so kind; they literally handed me a map marked with nearby shops so I could replace a few essentials.
The very first thing I did when I got to my room was walk straight to the balcony. Anytime I’m at a property with a view it is the first thing I want to see, and Hotel Bellevue does not disappoint!
The views overlooking the hotel’s very own beach cove are stunning and I spent a lot of time on my balcony the rest of the trip.
After soaking in the view, I changed into the one outfit I had, walked down toward the harbor, and let the city do its thing.
The weather was perfect, the core is walkable, and it’s an easy place to wander, even if, big picture, Dubrovnik can be a little more car‑dependent than some European capitals.
Over a packed few days I ate, sailed, cooked, and wandered my way through the region, and five things in particular blew me away: the luxury, the food, the wine, the people, and the beauty.
Here’s exactly how it unfolded, and how to copy the best parts for your own trip.
1) THE LUXURY — A Seamless Base With Serious Views
If you want a no‑stress Dubrovnik, base yourself with Adriatic Luxury Hotels (ALH) and let the network do the heavy lifting.
I stayed at Hotel Bellevue, which immediately became my happy place. Imagine waking up, stepping onto your balcony, and getting an ocean‑panorama slap of “I’m actually here.”
The rooms are modern and calm, the spa is perfect for a rainy afternoon reset, and those glass elevators… you float down the cliff like a movie scene.
What surprised me most was how well a single‑base strategy works here.
From Bellevue, Old Town is a quick ride or a slightly longer but very doable walk; island day trips are simple to set up; wine country is an easy half‑day; and the hotel’s own Vapor restaurant is a genuine fine‑dining option when the weather turns or you just want to keep it close.
One night we planned to eat in Old Town, but the skies opened and we pivoted to Vapor. Zero regrets! The food and service were as polished as any “destination restaurant.”
2) THE FOOD — From Festival Menus To Farmhouse Fire
This trip was originally built around a culinary theme, and Dubrovnik over‑delivered.
I arrived just in time for Taste the Mediterranean at Hotel Excelsior (another ALH property, and easily on my list for a future stay). Night Two brought a collaboration between chefs Beatriz Gonzalez and Petar Obad, and it was a blast.
They had me at the seafood course: an octopus dish with blue potato cream and a bright pop of orange that just sang of the Adriatic. (I mean just look at the pic below, does it not make you hungry?)
And dessert? A cacao symphony layered with Mexican vanilla, cacao‑bean ice cream, and caramelized pecans… one of those “don’t talk to me while I’m eating this” moments.
If you see the festival on your dates, book it.
If not, don’t worry, Vapor’s seasonal tasting menu scratches the same itch, and you can keep evenings walkably simple.
On the rustic side, I finally tried peka, that slow‑cooked, under‑the‑coals Croatian classic.
We went to Konoba Dubrava on a rainy day and ordered it ahead (you must call in advance because it takes hours).
Think pot roast’s richer, smokier cousin. Meat and potatoes melting into each other in the best possible way. Absolutely worth planning for.
And then there’s the sea‑to‑table moment that Dubrovnik does so well: oysters in Mali Ston Bay.
You boat out to floating platforms, learn how they’re farmed, and then slurp the freshest oysters with a crisp white wine right there over the water.
It’s simple, it’s fun, and those views back toward Mali Ston are postcard‑level.
3) THE WINE — A Quiet Heavyweight You Don’t See Coming
I’ve sipped my way through parts of France and didn’t expect Croatia to surprise me like this. But the Pelješac peninsula absolutely did.
Plavac Mali reds with structure and sun; Dubrovacka Malvasija whites that pair beautifully with seafood; and small, passionate producers like Miloš Winery who pour with a story. If you’re already out in Ston/Mali Ston for oysters, cap the loop with a nearby tasting, it’s such a relaxed way to end the day.
I was a bit tired from the longer day and time change and still perked up for the pours, especially a rosé that was unusually expressive and layered. Even tired, I was like, “Okay, that’s special!”
Back in the city, ask your somm for local pairings at dinner. You’ll get a fast education and a deeper connection to what’s on your plate. And for a really special experience with a very knowledgeable sommelier, book a wine tasting at Hotel Supetar.
4) THE PEOPLE — 10 Generations Of Welcome
Everywhere I went, people were happy we were there. It wasn’t performative; it was warm, direct, and unhurried in the best way.
Nowhere showed that better than Kameni Dvori in Konavle, where we did a hands‑on Garden‑to‑Table cooking class.
We kneaded bread while it rained, toured their garden for herbs and vegetables, collected eggs, and then cooked a multi‑course lunch with the family while they told stories about their 500‑year roots in the area. Ten generations. You can taste that continuity.
It’s a five‑hour experience with small groups (2–10), transfers available, and dietary‑friendly options if you ask in advance. If you want to feel connected to the place instead of just looking at it, this is your ticket.
Bring a small thank‑you from home—coffee or chocolate—because by the end you’ll feel like you’re leaving friends.
5) THE BEAUTY — Every Direction Is The Right One
I expected pretty. I didn’t expect it everywhere.
The Old Town stone is immaculate and glows at dusk. The islands are a watercolor of coves and churches.
The coastline puts on a show even from a car window.
And then there are surprises, like the glass elevator at Bellevue gliding through the cliff, or the view the second you step onto your first‑floor balcony that feels like a penthouse trick.
We spent one perfect morning on a yacht cruising to the Elaphiti Islands.
First stop: Koločep for coffee right on the water. You can hike to a little hilltop if you want, but lingering at the café felt exactly right.
Then Lopud, which is slightly larger but still small, with a photogenic church up the hill and a handful of tiny shops.
In summer, ask your skipper to stop at a cove for a swim; it was a touch too chilly for us, but locals were still jumping in and swore the water was around 73°F.
Back on land, we made up for a missed tour by building our own Old Town evening.
Jesuit Stairs (you’ll recognize them if you’re a Game of Thrones fan), then we slipped through a tiny opening in the sea wall to Buza Bar, literally hanging off the cliffs.
Cash only, minimal space, a bit of a bottleneck getting in and out—but absolutely worth it for sunset beers and that feeling of sitting on the edge of the world.
On the way out, we grabbed a snack at Holy Burek, then called it. Uber works well here; most cars are licensed taxis, so don’t be surprised if your ride shows up with a roof sign.
Another day we explored Cavtat, a serene, scenic counterpoint to Dubrovnik and my pick for a future stay.
We toured rooms at Hotel Supetar (an ALH property), walked the Coastal Promenade, and climbed to the hilltop cemetery for sweeping views.
Later, we returned to the hotel’s Garden Terrace & Bar to sample appetizers and drinks for the Good Food Festival—blankets on the chairs, lights twinkling over the harbor. It was one of those simple, perfect nights.
The Perfect Send‑Off
For our last night, we booked Proto in Old Town—widely considered the city’s top fish restaurant—and it delivered. If you can, reserve the upstairs patio. There’s something about waving goodbye to Croatia with seafood in front of you and lanterns flickering over the stone. We lingered longer than planned—always a good sign—and then walked the lanes one more time.
I came to Dubrovnik expecting pretty pictures. I left with a full notebook: a festival dinner I still think about, a cooking class that felt like family, oyster boats in a glittering bay, a cliff‑side hotel that became a home base, and new places to stay next time (Cavtat, I see you).
Overall? Dubrovnik is incredible. I can’t wait to go back. When a destination nails luxury, food, wine, people, and beauty all at once, it stops being a trip and starts feeling like a forever place.
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